Toadstool Nightlight

As evidenced in my Mad about mushrooms post,  Toadstools of all shapes and sizes make me a very happy mouse!

With that in mind it’s time for another spotty upcycling, crochet adventure!

The Toadstool Nightlight!!

This is more of a how to than a pattern given that you may have a jar that is slightly smaller, taller, fatter or shorter than mine but you should be able to ‘tweak’ this basic pattern to fit your jar 🙂

You will need…

A clean empty jar (for this tutorial I used a standard sized 1lb jam jar)

A battery operated tea light – not to state the obvious but a normal tea light would be dangerous not to mention a one time only deal!

Red aran yarn

White dk yarn

Beige dk yarn

Brown dk yarn

Green yarn

Size 5mm, 3.5mm and size 3mm hooks

stitch marker

yarn needle

scissiors

small button

 

How to!

Chain 2 does not count as a stitch

With beige yarn and 3mm hook

rd 1: into a magic circle, chain 2 and dc 12 times  , slip stitch into the top your first dc to close, pull the end to close the circle.

rd 2: chain 2 – dc twice into each stitch around then slip stitch into the top of your first dc to close

rd 3: chain 2 – dc into same stitch, *dc twice into the next stitch, dc into next stitch* repeat ** around, slip stitch into the top of your first dc to close.

At this point its worth checking to see whether your piece is the same size as the bottom of your jar. For my jar another round of dc would be too much so for this round I am going to change to hdc

rd 4: chain 1, hdc into same stitch, hdc into next stitch, *hdc twice into the next, hdc in each of the next two stitches* repeat ** around and slip stitch into the top of your first hdc to close.

We are now going to begin to work up the sides of the jar

rd 5: Chain 2, and in the back loops only dc into the same stitch, in the back loops only dc into each stitch around, slip stitch into the top of your first dc to close

rd 6: chain 2, in both loops dc around and slip stitch into the top of your first dc to close

If you have a shorter jar than mine you may want to skip row 7 and instead move straight on to round 8

rd 7: chain 2 and dc into each stitch around then slip stitch into the top of your first dc to close

rd 8: in this round we begin to make the ‘windows’

chain 2 and dc into the same stitch, dc into the next 10 stitches, chain 2, skip two stitches, dc, chain 2, skip two stitches, dc, dc into the next 14 stitches, chain two, skip two stitches, dc, chain 2, skip two stitches, dc, dc into each of the remaining stitches then slip stitch into the first dc to close.

rd 9: chain 2 and dc in the same stitch, dc into the next 10 stitches, chain two, dc into the next dc, chain two, dc, dc in the next 14 stitches, chain two, dc into next dc, chain two, dc into each of the remaining stitches around and slip stitch into top of first dc to close

rd 10: chain 2, dc into each stitch around (including the chain stitches) slip stitch into the top of your first dc to close

rd 11: chain 2 and dc in each stitch around slip stitch into top of your first dc to close

repeat round 11 until you about one row away from the top of the jar for me this was 5 more rounds

rd 17-18: chain 1, sc in each stitch around, slip stitch into the top of your first sc to close – do not cut yarn

sew in your end at the bottom if you haven’t already and slip the jar into your crochet piece.

rd 19: switch to your 3.5mm hook and loosely slip stitch around,  cut yarn and sew in end.

 

Door:

With brown yarn and 3mm hook

chain 6

row 1: sc into second chain from hook and in each stitch along chain 1 and turn (5 stitches)

row 2 – 6: sc into each stitch, chain 1 and turn

row 7: sc into each stitch, do not chain 1, turn

row 8, skip two stitches and dc 5 times into the next stitch, skip two stitches and slip stitch into the next stitch

do not turn

we are now going to work around the piece

chain one and work 6 sc evenly along the first side, sc twice into the corner, sc in the next 3 stitches, sc twice into the corner, work 6 single crochet along the next side evenly. Work one sc into the next stitch, 2sc into the next, sc into the next, 2 sc into the next and a final sc into the last. Slip stitch into the top of the next stitch to close, leave a long tail for sewing to the jar.

Sew your button onto the door wherever looks most pleasing to you then sew your door onto your beige cover in between the ‘window’ spaces. I like to line up the bottom of the door with rd 5 of the beige cover. Sew in ends.

Next up take a long length of green yarn and embroider on your ‘grass’ around the jar.

 

Toadstool Top:

with red aran yarn and 5mm hook and working continuously in the round ( ) indicates number of stitches you should have at the end of each round,

rd 1:  place 6 sc into magic circle (6)

rd 2: 2 sc in each st around (12)

rd 3: *sc in next, 2 sc in next* repeat ** 5 more times (18)

rd 4: *sc in next two st, 2sc in next* repeat ** 5 more times (24)

rd 5: sc in each stitch around (24)

rd 6: *sc in next three st, 2 sc in next* repeat ** 5 more times (30)

rd 7: sc in each stitch around (30)

rd 8: *sc in next four st, 2 sc in next* repeat ** 5 more times (36)

rd 9: sc in each stitch around (36)

rd 10: *sc in next five st, 2 sc in next* repeat ** 5 more times (42)

rd 11: sc i each stitch around (42)

rd 12: *sc in next 6 st, 2 sc in next* repeat ** 5 more times (48)

rd 13: sc in each stitch around (48)

rd 14: *sc in next seven st, 2 sc in next* repeat ** 5 more times (54)

rd 15: sc in each stitch around (54)

rd 16: *sc in next eight st, 2 sc in next* repeat ** 5 more times (60)

rd 17 – 19: sc in each stitch around (60)

 

ss to close and sew in ends

Spots:

with white wool and 3mm hook:

Make 3 – into a magic circle, chain 2 and dc 12 times, slip stitch into the top of your first dc to close, leave a long tail for sewing the spot to the top.

Make 3 – into a magic circle, chain 2 and dc 12 times, slip stitch into the top of your first dc, chain 1, hdc twice in each stitch around, slip stitch into the top of your first hdc to close, leave a long tail for sewing the spot to the top.

Arrange your spots on your top in a way that you like the look of and sew them to the top using the tails.

 

Pop your battery operated tealight into the jar, put the top on the jar and you have your very own toadstool nightlight 🙂

 

 

Happy crocheting 🙂

 

anonymouse x

 

Crochet kiwi slice cushion pattern

Quite a while ago I posted about the fruit cushions I had made for my cousin. I wrote up the patterns for the lemon, orange and lime slices and thought it was about time to write up a pattern for one of the other cushions.

So today its the turn of the kiwi slice!

You will need:

1 ball red heart soft in leaf

1 ball red heart soft in guacamole

1 ball red heart soft in off white

5mm hook

25 small black buttons (mine were 6mm diameter)

Needle and thread

Yarn needle

Round 16in cushion inner pad (I bought mine from amazon)

Scissors

Abbreviations:

dc = double crochet

sc = single crochet

ss = slip stitch

ch = chain

In this pattern ch2 at the beginning of each round does not count as a stitch

Pattern:

Front

With off white

rd1 – ch 2 and 12 dc into magic ring ss into the top of your first dc  (12)

rd2 – ch2, dc into same stitch twice continue to dc twice into each stitch around, ss to close (24)

rd3 – ch2, dc into same stitch, *2dc in next stitch, dc in next* – repeat around, ss to close (36)

rd4 – ch2 dc into same stitch, dc into next, 2dc in next, dc in each of the next two stitches* repeat around, ss to close (48)

change to guacamole colour yarn

rd5 – ch2 dc into same stitch, dc into each of the next two stitches, 2dc in next, dc in each of the next three stitches* repeat around, ss to close (60)

rd6 – ch2 dc into the same stitch, dc into each of the next stitch, *2 dc in next, dc each of the next four stitches* repeat until left with two stitches and dc into each of those stitches, ss to close (72)

rd7 – ch2 dc into same stitch, dc into each of the next four stitches, 2dc in next, dc in each of the next five stitches* repeat around, ss to close (84)

rd8 – ch2 dc into the same stitch, dc into each of the next two stitches, *2 dc in next, dc each of the next six stitches* repeat until left with three stitches and dc into each of those stitches, ss to close (96)

rd9 – ch2 dc into same stitch, dc into each of the next seven stitches, 2dc in next, dc in each of the next seven stitches* repeat around, ss to close (108)

rd10 – ch2 dc into the same stitch, dc into each of the next three stitches, *2 dc in next, dc each of the next eight stitches* repeat until left with four stitches and dc into each of those stitches, ss to close (120)

rd11 – ch2 dc into same stitch, dc into each of the next eight stitches, 2dc in next, dc in each of the next nine stitches* repeat around, ss to close (132)

rd12 – ch2 dc into the same stitch, dc into each of the next four stitches, *2 dc in next, dc each of the next ten  stitches* repeat until left with five stitches and dc into each of those stitches, ss to close (144)

rd13 – ch2 dc into same stitch, dc into each of the next ten stitches, 2dc in next, dc in each of the next eleven stitches* repeat around, ss to close (156)

change to leaf colour yarn

rd14 – ch1 (does not count as stitch) and hdc in each stitch around ss to close and fasten off

weave in ends

sew the buttons between rows 5 and 6

Back

repeat the pattern for the back using just the leaf shade of yarn.

To assemble – hold the two pieces together making sure the side with the buttons on is facing you and single crochet the two pieces together – when you get about 2/3rds of the way round insert the cushion pad then continue to sc around. ss to close and weave in any ends.

Ta da – you now have a kiwi slice to add to your ‘fruit bowl’!

 

 

 

anonymouse x

Cheeseburger Bag Pattern

I have been vegetarian for as long as I can remember. I was pretty young when I decided that meat was just not something I wanted to eat. The story goes that my mum who is a fantastic cook, made roast pork one day and the texture made me feel so sick, from that moment on meat was off my menu.

Vegetarian options when I was a kid were not great – particularly for a kid who was not just a vegetarian but a fussy one.  Give me a plate of sprouts, swede and cabbage and I was in heaven, but onions, peppers, mushrooms, eggs, meat substitutes and fish – not a chance!

My mum would make me tasty vegetarian versions of the meals she was preparing for the rest of the family, Faux shepherds pie with baked beans, sweetcorn and mash with melted cheese on top. Chicken a la king without the chicken, vegetable stews and pasta primavera. A particular favourite of mine was a bean dish my Uncle Will made me (I sadly haven’t got the recipe hint hint!)

A good veggie burger alluded me – due entirely to my fussiness, so you can imagine my delight at 38 discovering a burger that was not only vegetarian but also had none of those pesky meat substitutes or vegetables I don’t like in it.

I was taken out for a meal by Mr Anonymouses family to my local American style diner, Route 66 in Axminster (if you are ever passing through I highly recommend popping in if only for the milkshakes!). I was feeling a little adventurous which is unusual for me and ordered their butternut squash, beetroot and goats cheese burger – it was amazing!

One cannot eat out every night of the week so I searched for a recipe I could make at home and found this one from CookingisMessy and if I say so myself the resulting burger was yummy!

They freeze beautifully and taste divine.

 

With my new found appreciation for burgers I embarked on a bit of a crocheted burger frenzy. Given the relatively less known aesthetic of the beetroot and squash burger I went with the iconic Cheeseburger.

My first foray into crocheted cheeseburgers was with a pair of fingerless gloves.

 

This was only a few months into my crochet odyssey so looking back they could most definitely do with some refining.

 

 

A hat, tissue box cover and cushion cover swiftly followed. ( I am particularly proud of the cushion cover as it was the first time I had added a zip to my crochet work)

I had just finished my gold crocodile stitch bag and was sorting out some more of my yarn stash when I came across a ball of mariners dk in ‘taupe’. – the colour reminded me of a toasted burger bun. With previous burger based projects in mind and bags being where I am at crochet wise right now, a cheeseburger bag was the only way to go.

To make it you will need:

Yarn – I used mariners dk in taupe, stylecraft special dk in dark brown, meadow, sunshine, lipstick, parchment and cream. Feel free to use whatever dk yarns you have in similar colours.

3mm hook,

stitch marker

Yarn needle, scissors

Abbreviations: (american terms are used)

hdc = half double crochet

sc = single crochet

dc = double crochet

ss = slip stitch

ch = chain

blo = back loops only

flo = front loops only

sctog = single crochet together (you can find video tutorial on this stitch here)

Pattern.

Base of bag

With taupe colour ch 43

hdc into the third chain from hook (counts as two hdc) hdc in each chain across, place 3 hdc into the last stitch, place a stitch marker in the second of your three hdc. (do not turn) working along the other side of the chain hdc in each stitch across including the last stitch. You should end up with a piece that has 3 hdc at one end and 2 hdc and a ch2 at the other. ss into the top of the ch2 to close.

Ch1 (does not count as stitch) then hdc 3 times into the top of the ch2, hdc and place 3 hdc into the stitch you marked in the previous round then hdc in each remaining stitch around, ss into the top of your first hdc to close the round.

Body of bag.

r1 – 10 – ch1 (does not count as stitch) hdc around, ss to close

change to red yarn

r11 – ch1 (does not count as stitch) hdc around, ss to close

change to brown yarn

r12 – 20 – ch 1 (does not count as stitch) hdc around, ss to close

change to yellow yarn

r21 –  ch1 (does not count as stitch) hdc around, ss to close

change to green yarn

r22 ch1 (does not count as stitch) hdc around ss to close

r 23a – in the round you will be crocheting into the back loops only. (picture for illustration)

 

ch1 (does not count as stitch) sc 2 in each of the back loops only of each stitch around – ss into first sc to close, ch 1

working in both loops of the green – sc twice in each stitch around and ss to close – you should now have a frilly green bit that sticks out from the body of the bag.

Change to taupe yarn

rd 23b – ch1 (does not count as stitch) in the unworked loops of round 23, hdc around and ss to close

rd 24 – 38 – ch1 (does not count as stitch and hdc around ss to close.

turn work right side out

Cheese: Make 2

Leaving a long tail for attaching to bag (about 30 cm) with yellow yarn ch 15,

r1 – sc in second chain from hook and in in each chain across, ch1 and turn (14 stitches)

r2 – sctog the next two stitches, sc in next 10 stitches and sctog the remaining two stitches ch1 and turn (12 stitches)

r3 – sc in each stitch across, ch1 and turn (12 stitches)

r4 – sctog next two stitches, sc in next 8 stitches, sctog remaining two stitches, ch1 and turn (10 stitches)

r5 – sc in each stitch across, ch1 and turn (10 stitches)

r6 – sctog next two stitches, sc in next 6 stitches, sctog remaining two stitches, ch1 and turn (8 stitches)

r7 – sc in each stitch across, ch1 and turn (8 stitches)

r8 – sctog next two stitches, sc in next 4 stitches, sctog remaining two stitches, ch1 and turn (6 stitches)

r9 – sc in each stitch across, ch1 and turn (6 stitches)

r10 – sctog next two stitches, sc in next 2 stitches, sctog remaining two stitches, ch1 and turn (4 stitches)

r11 – sc in each stitch across, ch1 and turn (4 stitches)

r12 – sctog first two stitches,  sctog remaining two stitches, ch1 and turn (2 stitches)

r13 – sc in each stitch across, ch1 and turn (2 stitches)

r14 – sctog the two stitches, ch 1 turn (1 stitch)

r15 – sc into stitch then sc evenly around the piece, placing  two sc at each corner, ss to close.

Sew your ‘cheese’ triangles to your bag using the tail under the ‘lettuce’

Tomato slice: make 2

With red yarn

into a magic ring place 6 sc (do not pull closed)

ch 5 (counts as dc and ch2) dc into next stitch, ch2, dc into next stitch, ch2, dc into next stitch, ch2, dc into next stitch, ch2 dc into next stitch, ch2 and dc into last stitch,

ch1 and sc into each ch space and stitch around, in the top of the chain 5 place two sc, continue to sc evenly across the top of you piece, sc over the top of the tail left from the magic ring, ss to close leaving a tail long enough to use to attach to the bag. Gently pull the tail of your magic ring to tighten into a semi circle shape if needed and weave in the end.

Sew to bag under the ‘lettuce’

Onion slice: make 2

With cream yarn ch9, sc into second chain from hook and in each chain across (8 stitches)

ch12 and slip stitch into the last stitch. ch1 and turn. working over the chains place 2sc, 2hdc, 4dc, 2hdc, 2sc and ss to close. leave a tail to attach to bag.

Sew to bag under the ‘lettuce’

Strap:

With taupe ch7,

r1 – sc into second chain from hook and in each stitch across, ch1 turn, (6 stitches)

r2 – sc in each stitch across, ch1 turn (6 stitches)

repeat round 2 until strap reaches the length you require.

sc around the strap piece evenly placing 2 sc in each of the corners.

ss to close

Sew strap to bag.

Take a long piece of your parchment coloured yarn and embroider on ‘sesame seeds’ to the top part of your bag. It doesn’t matter too much about the inside of the bag as it will be covered by the lining. Make sure your stitches are not too tight.

Weave in any ends

Line your bag with fabric of your choice – a fantastic tutorial from craftsy on how to line a crochet bag can be found here

You should end up with something that looks like this 🙂

 

anonymouse x

 

 

 

 

 

More bags and a trip to Aldi

My name is Anonymouse and I am addicted to making crochet bags!

I feel madly deeply and completely in love with my crocodile stitch rainbow bag – so much so that I made another smaller version out of the left over yarn from the larger project.

I then did something that horrified Mr Anonymouse…I went to Aldi – more specifically I went to Aldi for their hobby and crafting special buy day. I know I said in my last post that I am surrounded by wool. I know I promised family and friends that I would not buy anymore wool. I know I don’t need more wool.. but… It’s so squishy and such a good price and I did need!

I ended up buying two 400g aran balls of each of the following colours: Olive green, red and blue, four 100g dk balls in each of the following colours: grey, white, cream and brown (you can never have enough neutral colours!) and four 50g cotton and acrylic mix dk balls in each of the following colours: beige, mottled green and gold sparkle.

At £3.99 per ball of aran, £3.99 per pack of four for the dk and £2.99 per pack of four on the cotton/acrylic mix it would have been rude not to! In total I bought 34 balls for just under £50 – bargain!

I set to work almost immediately after I returned home on a third crocodile stitch bag using the cotton/acrylic mix gold sparkle. It took about 3 1/2 balls to complete which means even taking the cost of the lining material into account, I have made this beauty for about the same price as a large cappuccino at Starbucks!

Sadly the photo does not show the full effect of the gold thread that runs through the yarn but in real life it shimmers and sparkles.

 

Each of the bags has been made using the crocodile stitch bag pattern from my previous blog post here. The only difference is in the number of chains to start with and the width of the strap. For both the gold and smaller rainbow bag I started with 35 chains and for the strap I started with 6 stitches for the rainbow bag and 7 stitches for the gold one.

I took a small break from bags to make a pair of crocodile stitch gloves for my lovely friend Beryls birthday and then a break from the crocodile stitch entirely to make a Cheeseburger bag (pattern on its way)

Crochet wise it is back to the crocodile stitch bag this time using the mottled green cotton/acrylic from Aldi and season 5 of The Vampire Diaries.

What is on your hook at the moment?

 

Anonymouse x

 

 

My next project

Crocodile stitch bag pattern

 

 

I bought this Scheepjes Cotton 8 ages ago in a sale as I really fancied giving cotton a go. The colours were gorgeous but I had no idea what project to use it for.

 

I ended up making a ZootyOwl Starflower mandala (pattern here) and a teeny freestyle one I made up as I went, a couple of bralettes which I have neither the figure nor will to wear (I followed a youtube video I can no longer find) and a few brooches from a pattern by lucy at attic24 (pattern here).

Then I ran out of ideas… so the remaining cotton was packed away in its suitcase and put on a shelf… until a week ago when the idea for the bag crept into my mind.

I knew I wanted to make more items using the crocodile stitch – it had been one of those stitches that took me quite a while to get the hang of but after making dozens of pairs of gloves for Christmas presents I feel like I can make a decent looking stitch now.

Having formed the basis of an idea I decided to go with the cotton as I wanted to stitches to look ‘sharp’ and if I am honest I wanted a rainbow shaded bag and the cotton was already sat in its little suitcase all rainbowy and ready to go – whereas I would need to actively look through my mountains of acrylic to select the shades – like I said lazy!

I ended up using the following shades:

Bordeaux, Red, Orange, Light Orange, Yellow, Light Green, Green, Petrol, Bright Blue, Heath, Moors, Fuschia and Pink.

Any yarn will work but the dimensions of the bag will differ depending on the weight of the wool and hook used. My bag ended up approx 13 inches wide, 2 inches deep and 14 inches long, with a 41 inch long strap. The bag does require some basic sewing but this can be done by machine or by hand. There is a fantastic tutorial on Craftsy  on how to line a crochet bag.

To make the bag you will need…

Yarn – I used an entire ball of the bordeaux and was left with a 3rd of a ball left of the remaining colours (cotton 8 is 170m per ball and 4 ply)

Hook – 3mm or a hook suitable for the yarn you choose

Yarn needle, scissors,

Lining material of your choice, zip (optional), Sewing pins, ruler and a means to sew it (i used my sewing machine for the lining and hand sewed it to the bag).

Abbreviations:

ch – chain

sc – single crochet

dc – double crochet

ss – slip stitch

V stitch = dc, ch 1, dc in same stitch

You will need to know how to do a crocodile stitch you can find an easy to understand guide from Red heart here…

 

The Pattern:

You will be working in both sides of the chain.

Ch 55

rd 1 – In the fourth chain from hook dc (this counts as 2 dc into space)

dc in next 50 chain spaces then dc four times in the last chain, working along the other side of the chain dc in the next 50 stitches and dc twice in the last space, ss into the top of the ch3 to close.

You should have 50 dc and two sets of 4 dc at each end. (108 stitches)

rd 2 – ch 3 and dc into same stitch (counts as two dc), dc in each of the next 51 spaces, 2 dc into the next two stitches, dc in each of the next 51 stitches, dc twice in the last stitch and ss into the top of the ch 3 to close. (112 stitches).

that is the base of the bag done – time to make like a crocodile!

rd 3 – ch 4 and dc into the same space (counts as a v stitch) ch 1, *skip one stitch, dc, ch1 into next, skip the next stitch and v stitch, ch1 into the next* repeat from *to* around – you should end with a dc, ch1 and ss into the top of the ch 3.

rd 4 – in this round you will be creating crocodile stitches around the posts of the v stitches and slip stitching around the posts of the dc stitches. To begin ch 1 then dc five times around the first v stitch post, ch1 – dc 5 times around the second post of the v stitch, ss around the post of the next dc – that should be one crocodile stitch made

*dc 5 times around the first post of the next v stitch, ch1 and dc 5 times around the post of the second v stitch, ss around the post of the next dc*  – repeat from *to* around, ss into the top of the last dc to close (i tend to slip stitch through both the corner of the first crocodile stitch and the top of the last dc in order to make the work look even)

change yarn if you are going multicoloured – make sure to attach new yarn where a dc was placed in rd 3 – not in a v stitch space from rd 3

rd 5 – in this round you will be placing v stitches in the spaces between the crocodile stitches (in the tops of the dc’s from rd 3) and a dc in the middle of the crocodile stitches.

Ch 4 and dc into same space, ch 1, dc into middle of next crocodile stitch, ch1, *make a v stitch in the next space, ch 1, dc into middle of the next crocodile stitch ch1* repeat from *to* around and ss in to the top of the ch3 to close

rd 6 – repeat rd 4

from here on you will be repeating rounds 4 and 5 until the bag reaches the desired length. I ended up with 26 colour changes in total

finishing off the top of the bag

Once you have completed your crocodile stitch rows decide what colour you wish to do the last two rounds with (i chose bordeaux) attach your yarn. I single crocheted twice in the middles of the crocodile stitches and spaced two single crochets evenly in the spaces between the middle, slip stitched to close , ch 1 and sc around, ss to close, cut yarn and weave in ends. You can make the top of the bag wider by adding more rows of single crochet but I was happy with just the two, it gave enough space to sew the lining to without detracting from the crocodile stitching.

For the strap:

chain 9, sc into second chain from hook, sc across, (8 stitches)

ch1, sc into same space, sc across (8 stitches)

repeat until strap is desired length. Attach contrasting yarn (i went with the pink) and sc evenly around all four sides of the strap making sure to sc twice in each corner, ss into first sc, cut yarn and weave in ends.

sew strap to top of bag.

Cut out and sew together your lining (if adventurous including zip or pockets) then hand stitch to your bag.

You’re done! all that’s left is to sit back and marvel at your awesomeness!

Ta dah!

 

I am in love with this bag – the cotton makes the crocodile stitches sharper and the colours make me smile (who doesn’t love a rainbow?).

With the left over cotton I am in the process of making a smaller version of the bag which is made in exactly the same way but starts with a ch 35 instead of 55.

 

If you give this or any of my other patterns a go I would love to see them 🙂

 

anonymouse x

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Gnomes, Apps and Ewok Ears

2017 is already shaping up to be a great year for crochet. I turned 40 in December and was thrown the most amazing gnome themed party by my family – complete with old fashioned games, a feast fit for even the most discerning gnome, gnome painting (I am now the proud owner of my own gnome terracotta army!) and great company!

Over the years I have moved around quite a bit and each move has seen me lose a lot of treasured books, so for my birthday I asked for people to buy me a book – either one that they loved or one they thought I should read and write a note in it so I could have a library of good wishes – I am ridiculously grateful for all the books I received. What I was not expecting however was my secret gift. Yarn – lots and lots and lots of gorgeous yarn!

I already had quite the stash of yarn but I now have so much squishy, colourful yarny goodness there is literally no space left to store it – beautiful mohairs, soft chunkies, cotton, eyelash and every colour of acrylic dk you can think of!

My crojo has been completely rejuvenated!

I downloaded the amigurumi today app from the itunes store for inspiration and there it was 2017’s first project – the little lady doll!

She was a really fun and relatively quick project and though I say so myself rather cute 🙂

 

I was so pleased with the way she turned out I had to make another one!

 

 

The app has loads of gorgeous free patterns on it – there is a monkey and some adorable turtle coasters I shall be giving a go soon.

 

My next projects were for my nephews star wars themed 6th birthday party – a teeny yoda and a set of 6 ‘ewok ears’

The ewok ears were really simple to make – you will need…

Plain plastic or metal headband

Brown wool (i used stylecraft alpaca dk in bark)

corresponding hook (i used a 3.5)

Eyelash wool in browns (i used yarn from my birthday stash which was unfortunately without a label but any brownish colours will do)

Yarn needle and scissors.

For the head band I crocheted 6 sc into a magic ring and continued to sc around until the whole of the plastic headband was covered and sewed in the ends

for the ears: Make 2

rd 1: 12 dc into magic ring ss to close

rd 2: 2 dc in each stitch around ss to close

rd 3: *hdc in first dc, hdc twice in next* repeat around ss to close. leave a long tail for attaching to the headband

rd 4: switch to eyelash yarn and sc in each stitch around. ss to close and weave in ends

sew the ears with the tail you left from rd 3 to the head band

 

As a ‘palette cleanser’ after all those ewok ears my next project was a little tissue travel pack cover using a pattern from Popsdemilk which you can find on their fantastic blog (love love loving the socks!) here

 

After the tissue cover I was ready to tackle something a bit bigger – I love rainbows and I love bags and since learning the crocodile stitch for the fingerless gloves I decided to make a rainbow crocodile stitch bag using Scheepjes cotton 8.

 

I am in love!! its sooooo pretty – took a while to complete mainly as the cat will not let me crochet in his presence – but I am ridiculously pleased with it. I am currently writing up what I did and should have a pattern for the bag up on the blog shortly

 

Hope everyone has had an awesome start to 2017

 

Anonymouse x

 

Wow it’s been a while!

Oops! It would appear that I have left this blog alone for far longer than anticipated! The last year has been a rollercoaster! I had to move house as my landlord was selling up, there was the suspected brain tumour, my folks in and out of hospital and new editions to the family since I last wrote about my crochet adventures here.

Meet Oswald and Frank my new kitten and Gecko!

 

Though I have been crocheting I have been crazy busy settling in and adapting to my new life. That was until I saw the most gorgeous gloves pop up on my facebook and had to try and make my own.

There are several patterns for ‘dragonscale gloves’ on ravelry but I wanted to see if I could figure out a way to make them myself. So far I have made 3 pairs for myself and xmas gifts (best to start on those early after last year ended up rushed and with a nasty case of carpal tunnel!)

Anyways that is enough about me – on to the pattern!

You will need:

1 ball of Yarn – I used King Cole Riot DK, I love the colours and that it is thin so the crocodile stitches round the palms do not get too bulky which would be annoying

3.5mm and 3mm hooks

Scissors

Needle to weave in ends

 

The stitches: I use American crochet terms throughout

Ch = chain

SS = slip stitch

SC = single crochet

HDC = half double crochet

DC = double crochet

V = DC, ch1, DC in same stitch

Crocodile stitch:

You will also need to know how to do the crocodile stitch – I have tried to include pictures and instructions but if you are new to this stitch (as I was) you can find a fantastic beginners tutorial from Red Heart Yarns here…  Crocodile stitch tutorial

Granny stitch

The granny stitch is three dc’s into the same stitch

The Pattern!

Round 1 – Using your 3.5mm hook chain 36 then making sure the chain is not twisted, slip stitch into the beginning chain to create a circle (to make the gloves larger or smaller chain fewer or more stitches making sure they are a multiple of 4).

Round 2 – Ch1 and SC into the same stitch then place one single crochet in each chain around, SS into the first SC (36 st)

Round 1

Round 2

 

Switch to your 3mm hook

Round 3 – Chain 4 (counts as dc + ch1) and dc into same stitch (your first V stitch), ch 1, skip the next stitch and dc into the next, *ch1, skip the next stitch and V stitch into the next, ch 1, skip the next stitch and dc into the next * repeat around – you should end on a dc stitch, ch1 and slip stitch into the 3^rd chain of your chain 4. ( 9 ‘v’ and 9 dc’s)

Beginning of round 3

Round 3 completed

 

Round 4 – time for the first crocodile stitch!

You will be crocheting around the posts of the dc’s – 5 dc’s down one side of the V, chaining one then 5 dc’s up the other side of the V.

Yarn over hook, insert hook under the first dc of your first V, yarn over, pull yarn through two hoops. Yarn over, pull yarn through the remaining two hoops, repeat 4 more times working down the post,

Chain 1, you will now do the same up the second dc post of the V

The posts of the V stitch

Dc around the first post

FIrst DC done

Second post of the V

DC around the second post

5 dc’s around each of the posts

Slip stitch around the post of the next dc

Repeat around creating crocodile stitches around the V’s and anchoring them in place by slip stitching around the posts of the dc’s until you have gone all the way around – on the last slip stitch, instead of stitching around the dc post slip stitch into the top of the stitch. ( 9 crocodile stitches)

Slip stitch into top of stitch shown

Round 4

 

Round 5 – Chain 4 and dc into same stitch, *ch1 and dc into space of next crocodile stitch, ch1 and V stitch into the top of the dc from the last round* repeat from * to * around,  SS into 3^rd chain of chain 4

DC into space shown (middle of Crocodile stitch)

V stitch into space shown (DC from last round)

Round 5

 

Round 6 – Repeat rd 4

Round 7 – Repeat rd 3

Round 8 – Repeat rd 4

Round 9 –  Repeat rd 3

Round 10 –  Repeat rd 4

Round 11 –  Repeat row 3

Round 12 – Repeat row 4

You should now have 5 rows of crocodile stitch – this is long enough me but feel free to add more rows if you want longer finger and hand parts of the gloves.

Round 6

Round 8

Round 10

Round 12

Round 13 – chain 4 and dc into same stitch, ch1, dc into the middle of the next crocodile stitch , ch 10 (this begins the thumb shaping), skip one crocodile stitch and dc into the center of the next crocodile stitch, *ch 1 v stitch into the dc from the previous round, ch1 and dc into the middle of the next crocodile stitch* repeat from * to * around, slip stitch into the 3^rd chain of your chain 4

Skip marked stitch

Round 14 – ch 1 and make a crocodile stitch around the V – then SC into the top of the next dc, SC in each chain across and into the top of the next dc (12 SC in total),  make a crocodile stitches the same way as you have done for previous rounds and then SS into the top of your last dc.

Single crochet into marked stitch

Single crochet across

Round 14

Round 15 – In this round you will be switching from Crocodile stitch to Granny Stitch. I like to make sure my work is turned so that the wrong side is facing me – this helps to hide the slip stitches made during the granny stitch stage of the gloves.

Ch  3 and dc twice more into the same stitch, dc three times into the middle of the next crocodile stitch,  find the SC you did into the top of the dc in the previous round – dc that and the next SC together, dc2tog 5 more times, you should now have 6 dc2tog in total. *Dc 3 times into the middle of the next crocodile stitch, dc 3 times into the top of the dc from previous round* , repeat ** around and slip stitch into the top of your chain 3.

Wrong side

Single crochet from previous round

6 DC2tog completed

Granny stitch into marked stitch

Round 16 – Slip stitch across to the next gap, Chain 3 and dc twice more into the same space, dc three times into the next gap, Skip the next stitch then dc2tog the next two stitches, dc2tog the next two stitches, then dc 3 times in the gap between the dc2tog and granny stitch from previous round, continue to 3dc in each gap around SS in top of chain 3

Granny Stitch into the gaps marked

Skip the marked stitch

How the thumb shaping should look in this round

 

Round 17 – Slip Stitch to the next gap, ch 3 and 2 dc in same space, granny stitch into the next space, skip both dc2tog and granny stitch into the next gap, granny stitch in each gap around, SS into top of chain 3

Granny stitch into marked gap

How thumb shaping should look this round

Round 17

Round 18 – Slip stitch to next gap, ch 3 and dc twice into same gap, Granny stitch in each gap around, slip stitch into top of chain 3.

Repeat round 18 until you reach the desired length – I have found that 13 more rows are perfect for me and with this wool ensures the colour change is not too different when you make the second glove.

I finished off with a round of hdc but you can add any border you fancy!

All that’s left to do is weave in those ends. The second glove is made in exactly the same way!

 

I hope this all makes some sort of sense – apologies for the picture quality, let me know if you find any mistakes!!

 

 

 

Crochet Gnome Pattern

Recently I have been crocheting gnomes again – I made three a couple of years ago but could not remember how I did it!!

first ever gnome!!

This time I have actually written down what I did whoop!

You will need…

yarn for body (i used red heart lisa)

yarn for hat (again I used red heart lisa)

Yarn for nose ( any light beige dk yarn will do)

Yarn for beard ( I used stylecraft white for two of the gnomes and red heart lisa in grey for the third)

Yarn needle

size 3.5 and 4.5 crochet hooks

some stuffing

scissors

some sort of stitch marker

Optional – slicker brush or unused toothbrush

Abbreviations:

sc = single crochet

ss = slip stitch

blo = back loops only

Body

body is worked in continuous rounds

with 3.5 hook

sc 6 times into magic circle (6)

sc twice in each stitch around  (12)

sc in next, sc twice in next – repeat around (18)

sc in next 2 stitches, sc twice in next – repeat around (24)

sc in next 3 stitches, sc twice in next – repeat around (30)

sc in next 4 stitches, sc twice in next – repeat around (36)

sc in next 5 stitches, sc twice in next – repeat around (42)

In back loops only sc around (42)

In both loops sc around until you reach the desired height (i did about 12 rounds for the red gnome)

sc decrease over next 2 stitches, sc in next 5 – repeat around (36)

sc around (36)

sc decrease over next 2 stitches, sc in next 4 – repeat around (30)

sc around (30)

sc decrease over next 2 stitches, sc in next 3 – repeat around (24)

sc around (24)

sc decrease over next 2 stitches, sc in next 2 – repeat around (18)

sc decrease over next 2 stitches, sc in next – repeat around (12)

I like to turn my work the right way round at this point and firmly stuff

once stuffed sc decrease 6 times (6) ss in next and sew round to close. Weave in end securely

Hat

worked in continuous rounds

with 4.5 hook

6 sc into magic circle (6)

sc around (6)

randomly sc increase twice in this row – sc in each of the other stitches (8)

randomly sc increase twice in this row – sc in each of the other stitches (10)

sc around (10)

randomly sc increase twice in this row – sc in each of the other stitches (12)

randomly sc increase twice in this row – sc in each of the other stitches (14)

sc around (14)

randomly sc increase twice in this row – sc in each of the other stitches (16)

randomly sc increase twice in this row – sc in each of the other stitches (18)

sc around (18)

randomly sc increase twice in this row – sc in each of the other stitches (20)

randomly sc increase twice in this row – sc in each of the other stitches (22)

sc around (22)

randomly sc increase twice in this row – sc in each of the other stitches (24)

randomly sc increase twice in this row – sc in each of the other stitches (26)

sc around (26)

randomly sc increase twice in this row – sc in each of the other stitches (28)

randomly sc increase twice in this row – sc in each of the other stitches (30)

sc around (30)

randomly sc increase twice in this row – sc in each of the other stitches (32)

randomly sc increase twice in this row – sc in each of the other stitches (34)

sc around (34)

randomly sc increase twice in this row – sc in each of the other stitches (36)

randomly sc increase twice in this row – sc in each of the other stitches (38)

sc around (38)

randomly sc increase twice in this row – sc in each of the other stitches (40)

randomly sc increase twice in this row – sc in each of the other stitches (42)

sc around (42)

randomly sc increase twice in this row – sc in each of the other stitches (44)

randomly sc increase twice in this row – sc in each of the other stitches (46)

randomly sc increase twice in this row – sc in each of the other stitches (48)

randomly sc increase twice in this row – sc in each of the other stitches (50)

check hat fits loosely over the body – you want it to sit roughly where you began decreasing the body – if it does not carry on increasing until it does

if it does

sc around for three rows

ss, leave at least 25cm of yarn for attaching to body

nose

worked in continuous rounds

with 3.5 hook

sc 6 into magic circle (6)

sc twice in each stitch around (12)

sc around (12)

sc around (12)

ss and break yarn leaving tail for attaching to body

assembly…

lightly stuff then sew the nose to the body I tend to sew mine so that the bottom sits on the first decrease row of the body

Cut lengths of the beard yarn approx 6 inches

using your 3.5 hook

taking two strands of the yarn, fold in half to create a ‘loop’, with your hook pull that loop through one of the stitches at the base of your nose, pull the other end of the yarn through the loop and ‘knot’ the yarn by pulling tightly.

I tend to start at the top of the nose in the middle and work my way down one side and then do the same the other side in order to create a moustache and keep the beard ‘balanced’

trim the beard into a shape and length that you prefer

To add the hat you will want to turn the last few rows upwards to create a ‘brim’. Sit the hat on the body so that the brim sits snug over the top of the nose, curl the ‘brim’ down and sew around securely along the last of your increase rows making sure to add a couple of stitches either side of the nose. Curl the brim back up and ‘squish’ the hat down a little to give it a ‘crooked’ look.

Optional – brush out the beard with a slicker brush (I used a toothbrush – it took ages!)

You can modify how tall your gnomes are by adding or removing the number of sc around rows you add to the body. You can make them skinnier or fatter by adding increase rows to the body – but will need to also increase the number of increase rows for the hat.

Upcycled crochet earring holder tutorial!

My aunt asked me to write out a tutorial for the crochet earring holder I made so here it is!!

You will need…

An old frame (square or rectangle without the glass)

dk yarn of your choice

4mm hook

Scissors

Darning needle

Suitable glue

Buttons (optional)

Terms and stitches…

ch = chain

sc = single crochet

dc = double crochet

chain 1 does not count as a stitch

chain 3 counts as your first dc

Pattern…

To begin you need to chain in multiples of 6 with 2 extra chains – my frame required 26 stitches in total – you want your chain to fit the frame when stretched not when loose, as you do not want the final piece to sag under the weight of what you hang on it.

row 1 – sc in second chain from hook, *skip the next 2 stitches then dc five times into the next stitch, skip the next two stitches and sc into the next* – repeat from  * to * to the end of the row – you should finish with a sc.

if like me you are changing colours at the end of each row – attach new colour (i do this by using the new colour to yarn over on the last yarn over of the last stitch) row 2 – chain 3 and dc twice into the same stitch, *skip the next two stitches and sc into the next, skip the next two stitches and dc five times into the next* repeat from * to * until the last three stitches then skip the last two stitches and dc 3 times into the last stitch (change colour if you are)

row 3 – chain 1 and sc into the same stitch, skip the next 2 stitches then dc five times into the next stitch, skip the next two stitches and sc into the next* – repeat from  * to * until the last three stitches then skip the next two stitches and sc into the last. (change colour if you are)

You now just carry on repeating rows 2 and 3 until your piece is the required length

end of row 7

end of row 12

end of row 18

fasten off and weave in all your ends!

remove the back of the frame and put glue along the lip where the glass would usually sit and press one edge of your crochet work into it – I do one side at a time and allow it to dry completely before doing the next – make sure to stretch the work so it fits well – use clothes pegs if you need to, to keep it in place whilst it dries.

Once all four sides are glued and dry add the back of the frame and secure.

all glued in and secure

If you want you can add flowers, buttons, or other decorations to the frame like I did with these ones

All that’s left is to decide where to put it and add your jewelry

hanging up on the wall

free standing

excuse the santa earrings – all my non christmas earrings seem to have disappeared – also pictured crochet flower brooch and some fun button hairslides I made last year!

You can even add little hooks to the bottom of the wall hanging frames to hang necklaces and bracelets from ( unfortunately no hooks in my stash so can’t show you :()

anonymouse x